Fall. The season brings with it pumpkin patches and corn mazes, jackets on a chilly morning, warm pumpkin spice flavors and apple ciders, and, of course, piles of yellow, orange, and red leaves. When you think Fall, you may think of Halloween and Thanksgiving, but here in the Southwest, Fall means something else.
Fall means it’s time for Albuquerque’s International Balloon Fiesta!
The Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta is one of the largest hot air balloon launches in the entire world. The event takes place over the course of nine days each October, with balloons launching in the mornings, food, shops, and live chain saw carvings keeping spectators busy during the day, and balloon glows and fireworks in evenings. In 2019, the event set records, launching an incredible 524 hot air balloons in one morning, representing 17 different countries.
In our journey through the Southwest, this is a must see.
Throughout our past travels, we’ve talked a lot about the land. It’s been for good reason, of course - the land in these parts is incredible. We’ve seen geologic marvels, uncovered ancient stories, and seen the marks history has left upon the desert. In doing so, however, we’ve left out one very important detail.
People.
The modern day desert is a mix of geology, nature, history, and people. The people that live here are just as much a part of the land as the other three. Their stories shape the land.
Think of hot air balloons as a symbol of this. Balloons are not an inherent part of the desert landscape like the mountains and scrub. And yet, they’ve become ubiquitous with New Mexico. Like the people who have made their homes here, hot air balloons have become a part of the land, blending into the desert and becoming part of the rich, vibrant culture that calls this place home.
New Mexican culture is complex. So many people have called - and still call - this place home, including the Pueblo people, the Navajo, the Apache, the Spanish and Mexicans, and the Americans. It has not always been an easy history, as we saw at El Morro, but all of these people left their mark on New Mexico. The New Mexican culture we know of today is the result of the many diverse people who live here. It is a blend of Native American, Hispanic, and Anglo cultures. It is what makes New Mexico so unique.
The Balloon Fiesta is a celebration of this culture.
For nine days, hundreds of thousands of people from all over the world come to celebrate. It is a fiesta, a party, is it not? These visitors drive past the Sandias and over the Rio Grande to arrive at the Balloon Fiesta Park. They shop at the dozens of vendors selling turquoise jewelry, clothing with graphic desert prints, woven blankets, and other souvenirs. They admire the work of local artists. They snack on churros and breakfast burritos slathered with Hatch green chile.
Meanwhile, the balloons fill the grass of the park. Balloonists fire off the burners, creating towers of flame and heat that slowly fill the balloons. Visitors will see balloons of all shapes, colors, and patterns, more than they could have ever imagined. Chickens, dogs, lions, seals, dragons - nothing is too wild here. There is a Jesus balloon. A Darth Vader. A Wells Fargo carriage. In true New Mexico fashion, there is even a string of chiles, also known as a chile ristra. It is a showcase of creativity and wonder.
In the evenings, visitors can marvel at the Glowdeo, where the fires are lit, the balloons inflated, but they remain on the ground for one’s viewing pleasure. People can swarm around the balloons, ogling from close enough to feel the heat of the flame.
In the early mornings, the balloons light up once more. Together, they fire off the burners. The roar fills the air, and the flames light the field. The balloons fill. And, all together, they rise into the open New Mexico sky.
In short, the Balloon Fiesta is quintessential New Mexico. For almost 50 years, it has showcased the cultures and traditions of these desert people. It was an annual event, one everyone could look forward to.
But that changed.
It was the year 2020. I don’t have to tell you what happened here. Surely you already know. After all, a pandemic by definition is a worldwide event.
Suddenly, we were all living the kind of event you and I might read about on our travels. We were no longer observers, seeking out stories and digging out the truth. We were the story. It was our lives that were being affected. Our truth that was flipped upside down. Life had to be put on hold. Events canceled. Everything closed. Loved ones just a face on a screen. Socialization now a threat rather than a necessity.
History is much less fun when you’re the one living it.
Of course, the Balloon Fiesta was affected. Everywhere was. And when people were dying, when Albuquerque nursing homes were losing dozens each day and the Navajo Nation was fighting to control the spread, gathering hundreds of thousands to launch balloons was foolhardy.
It just goes to show how dangerous was the threat the world faced. We cannot see viruses. They float around us, invisible, seemingly insignificant. And yet, this one was powerful enough to halt nearly 50 years worth of tradition. Survival trumps all.
Even so, desert people are hardy folk. They do not back down when faced with a challenge. Throughout history, their determination has kept them alive in this at times inhospitable yet beautiful place. They have survived the desert because they are a resilient bunch. Just as they have persisted through the challenges of the past, they will manage this one too.
As of October 2021, over seventy percent of adults in New Mexico have completed their vaccinations. Cases are holding steady at levels hospitals can sustain. For the most part, people are masking up indoors. The pandemic is not over, but we are managing.
As I write this story, the 2021 Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta is just wrapping up. After a year of distancing, people were able to come together to celebrate once more. Let us hope that this is a sign of better times to come. Some day, we will be able to look at what has happened like we look at other stories of the past. For now, we will persist. Next year, the Balloon Fiesta will celebrate its 50th anniversary. Hopefully by then, the only shadow passing overhead will be from a hot air balloon rather than the threat of a virus.
At that time, I hope to see you there, my friend. After all of uncertainty, we will celebrate again.
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